Description

The original MAKPAC is expensive, so why not after all 3D print it? Yes - possible, but there are no models available and 3D printing a 30x40 cm piece will cost you almost the same as buying an injection moulded part. Also most printers dont offer that kind of build volume - but what about smaller sizes? Right - there is none, but wouldn't it be nice to have those to put in screws, drill bits and such?

About

the box is intended to mimic the MAKPAC so it has the same proportions and looks the same so it fits nicly into your workshop

Note that this is not a scale model of the original MAKPAC, if you scale it up it will not be compatible with the original
so what is different?

    internal geometry is a bit simplified (especially the corners)
    hinge mechanism at the back is modified so it is more stable
    carry handle hinges are made to be disassmbed
    screw mounts in the lid are not to scale (designed to accept M3 screws)
    mounts for the carry strap on the lid are not present
    cutouts for a padlock on the front right are not present
    holes in the corners are omitted (they would protrude to the inside)
    bottom pattnern is slightly changed for easier printing
    wall thickness slighly increased for more rigidity

BOM

    a printer with rougly 200 x 150 mm build area
    roughly 250 to 300 g of filament
    i've just used regular black and white PETG from Geeetech (affiliate link)
    some plastic glue (UHU Hart works for me; affiliate link)

If you want Makita color, try looking for RAL 5021 (or RAL 5018) - those tend to be pretty expensive, that is why i used plain old black :)
Printing

Keep in mind that there are lots of appearant overhangs and bridges, make a testprint to check it if works - it is intended

 

use the following settings as a guidline
general

    PETG
    0,2 mm layers
    3 walls
    3 bottom surface layers
    25 % gyroid infill
    normal supports with 1 mm interface spacing
    interface 90° to buildplate
    bridges 0° to buildplate

pins

    maximum walls
    concentric pattens
    random seams

feet

    no supports, just the bridges

label

    no supports, just bridges
    bridges at 45°
    color change after layer 4 (base is 0,8 mm) if you want the logo to be colored differently, layer 5 and 6 get the other color
    there is also a blank label included - use 2 layers (0,4 mm) for your own text

Assembly

the feet and the label need to be glued on (it is needed to save material and make it easer to print), also the handle needs to be glued together

the bridges used in printing have a tolerance of about 0,1 to 0,2 mm and are intended to give the glue a surface to grab on - so even if you print in PETG it will be durable bond - so if you have a multi material printer and want to use support material to have a clean surface, be aware that you intentionally make the glue surfaces “rough”

after everything is glued together, add the handle and the lid with the matching pins

due to print tolerances and the fact that they are printed with random seams the are intentionally rough so they have better friction and don't fall out. if you don't get them in straight away, turn then and move them back and forth until they snap into place

the latches need to be angled at 45° and then twisted in (just like on the original MAKPAK) 


https://makerworld.com/en/models/49182-makita-makpac-mini-size-1-2-3-and-4-50?from=search#profileId-132541